I'm not sure I have a favourite thing, there's just too many but the BM and the V&A are surely some of the most interesting and absorbing places in London. Being a buildings nerd I love the Weald and Downland Museum (or whatever it's newer name is?!).
PS I made the big hand-hewn oak sign at the main road entrance to Sutton Hoo - that too is a special place
Lovely travelogue! But I was a bit puzzled - you seem to suggest that the BM has sections which *aren’t* the medieval galleries. Who would have thought it!
My daughter is a jewelry designer with an interest in history. Her senior project in college was a study of pieces from the Staffordshire hoard, looking at both the actual methods of construction, and at adapting selections to modern use (for instance, setting a replication of a small round object - button, IIRC - as a ring that could be sold in a museum gift shop). She was able to attend the exhibit when a selection of items from the hoard came to DC some years ago; it was a quite special trip for both of us.
It has always been my dream to visit the BM so thank you for giving me a virtual sneak peek! I often wonder how incomplete or altered our knowledge is of cultures where the main archeological source is burial sites. They clearly tell us an immense amount about how people lived and what they considered important, but what fascinating gaps do they leave?
HUGE gaps! It's important to remember, as you rightly point out, that this is just one aspect of their lives. Though it's a window, it's quite a small and murky window. One thing that fascinates me, for example, is far these assemblages match the person's identity in life, or whether they're more an image of what they (or their families) wanted them to be. So much information we'll just likely never know!
I only had one day at the BM, in what was the hottest August then on record for London. I joked with my friends that the most popular exhibits were the feeble fans standing in a few corners.
I restrained myself in the gift shop and only bought a Rosetta Stone t-shirt. My English friends had thought "been there, done that, bought the t-shirt" was merely a quaint American expression instead of self-observed behavior.
I wonder if we went on the same day! I went in August 2022 when it was over 40 degrees celsius and I almost boiled! Sounds like you did well in the gift shop - I could spend so much money in there as it's all so pretty...
It's one of the most beautiful jewellery techniques in the medieval world, I think! The gold foil backing takes such skill and was done without the use of microscopes - astonishing. Thank you for sharing!
Your piece does a great job of shedding light on a misunderstood period of history. I really enjoyed your article - it’s insightful, well-argued, and brings fresh attention to the richness of the so-called 'Dark Ages.'
I love all the museums with artifacts; my photo rolls are full of glass, jewelry, coins, decorative pieces. The one I know best is the Germanisches Nationalmuseum in Nuremberg where I lived for several years. Whole rooms of musical instruments or a collection of little iron animal figures that are actually pitchers. I'll get back to the British Museum one of these days.
There’s just something so special about the objects themselves, isn’t there? A really tangible connection to the people we study. I find myself wanting to take photos almost of whole exhibits!
I've tried, believe me - LOL. I always think of the artists and artisans who made the objects -- that their hands were there. Once I saw a Mozart score - one he'd written - and I burst into tears. A little over the top but hey...
Not over the top at all! Something that a person produced with their own hands - such as writing - is deeply personal, especially when we know it came from one of the greats like Mozart! I think I’d have teared up too!
An interesting tour and the Medieval Cookbook in the bookstore popped out at me. @Ann Marie Ackerman and @Marie Powell have taken a couple of medieval cooking classes that picqued my interest in their travel and culture Substack.
Yes, the cookbook really resonated with a conversation I had recently about the types of history books readers wanted to see on the shelves - almost all practical how-to’s (like a history of monasteries written as a how-to guide for a 14th-century person running a monastery.
I was a student at UCL in 2001-2002 and I used to pop in to the British Museum every week or so. I went back last summer for the first time in 20 years (!) with my family and I too was caught off guard by the ticketing, back entrance, etc. But none of that mattered as soon as I was looking at the Franks Casket and then the Lewis Chessmen for the first time in decades, now with my children. The British Museum will always be my favorite (although I have soft spot for the Cloisters and the Frick in NYC, and Sir John Soane in London).
I would go to exactly the same room you did in the British Museum, which really does have to be my favourite museum so far in the world. But someday, if you find yourself with a bit of extra cash, buy a membership. It doesn't free you from security, that's just a sad reflection of the world we live in, but it allows you into special exhibits without a ticket, gives you access to special tours and lectures, some of which are online, and, it allows you to escape that noisy echoing atrium for the members lounge. Where you can eat or write notes in peace.
I didn’t know about the members lounge! That sounds wonderful; it really is so loud otherwise. I have often thought about a membership so that I can go to the exhibitions & lectures, and will definitely look into it one day when I’m in a financial position to 🥰
Way back when, I also used to pop into the BM whenever I had a spare hour or so. You would've been more likely to see me turn left, however, into the Egyptian rooms. Not that I don't love the medieval too of course (why else would I be subscribed to you!). I've also visited Sutton Hoo itself, which is a wonderful and magical place. Everyone should go!
Last time I went to the BM was a bit of a shock, though - like them asking for your ticket - I was shuffled in a back way and had to go through a 'security check'. Except in my case they just lazily waved me through. So much for security.
But by enforcing that sort of thing, they are attacking our culture. And that isn't acceptable.
Everyone should visit more museums more often. Meaning, really, everyone should have the opportunity to do so...
I really do agree with you that people should visit museums more often: there is so much culture and learning there! That’s why I love that most museums in the UK are free to enter.
I'm not sure I have a favourite thing, there's just too many but the BM and the V&A are surely some of the most interesting and absorbing places in London. Being a buildings nerd I love the Weald and Downland Museum (or whatever it's newer name is?!).
PS I made the big hand-hewn oak sign at the main road entrance to Sutton Hoo - that too is a special place
That’s an incredible claim to fame! I love visiting the actual Sutton Hoo.
Lovely travelogue! But I was a bit puzzled - you seem to suggest that the BM has sections which *aren’t* the medieval galleries. Who would have thought it!
I know, apparently they do exist, but I’m yet to see them myself 🤣
My daughter is a jewelry designer with an interest in history. Her senior project in college was a study of pieces from the Staffordshire hoard, looking at both the actual methods of construction, and at adapting selections to modern use (for instance, setting a replication of a small round object - button, IIRC - as a ring that could be sold in a museum gift shop). She was able to attend the exhibit when a selection of items from the hoard came to DC some years ago; it was a quite special trip for both of us.
It must have been so special! Did any of her creations make it into shops, or was the project just for her college work?
It has always been my dream to visit the BM so thank you for giving me a virtual sneak peek! I often wonder how incomplete or altered our knowledge is of cultures where the main archeological source is burial sites. They clearly tell us an immense amount about how people lived and what they considered important, but what fascinating gaps do they leave?
HUGE gaps! It's important to remember, as you rightly point out, that this is just one aspect of their lives. Though it's a window, it's quite a small and murky window. One thing that fascinates me, for example, is far these assemblages match the person's identity in life, or whether they're more an image of what they (or their families) wanted them to be. So much information we'll just likely never know!
I only had one day at the BM, in what was the hottest August then on record for London. I joked with my friends that the most popular exhibits were the feeble fans standing in a few corners.
I restrained myself in the gift shop and only bought a Rosetta Stone t-shirt. My English friends had thought "been there, done that, bought the t-shirt" was merely a quaint American expression instead of self-observed behavior.
I wonder if we went on the same day! I went in August 2022 when it was over 40 degrees celsius and I almost boiled! Sounds like you did well in the gift shop - I could spend so much money in there as it's all so pretty...
I've always thought cloi·son·né was underrated. Take a look at this not-so-dark-ages bling.
It's one of the most beautiful jewellery techniques in the medieval world, I think! The gold foil backing takes such skill and was done without the use of microscopes - astonishing. Thank you for sharing!
Your piece does a great job of shedding light on a misunderstood period of history. I really enjoyed your article - it’s insightful, well-argued, and brings fresh attention to the richness of the so-called 'Dark Ages.'
I’m so glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for taking the time to leave such a lovely comment 🥰
I love all the museums with artifacts; my photo rolls are full of glass, jewelry, coins, decorative pieces. The one I know best is the Germanisches Nationalmuseum in Nuremberg where I lived for several years. Whole rooms of musical instruments or a collection of little iron animal figures that are actually pitchers. I'll get back to the British Museum one of these days.
There’s just something so special about the objects themselves, isn’t there? A really tangible connection to the people we study. I find myself wanting to take photos almost of whole exhibits!
I've tried, believe me - LOL. I always think of the artists and artisans who made the objects -- that their hands were there. Once I saw a Mozart score - one he'd written - and I burst into tears. A little over the top but hey...
Not over the top at all! Something that a person produced with their own hands - such as writing - is deeply personal, especially when we know it came from one of the greats like Mozart! I think I’d have teared up too!
An interesting tour and the Medieval Cookbook in the bookstore popped out at me. @Ann Marie Ackerman and @Marie Powell have taken a couple of medieval cooking classes that picqued my interest in their travel and culture Substack.
Yes, the cookbook really resonated with a conversation I had recently about the types of history books readers wanted to see on the shelves - almost all practical how-to’s (like a history of monasteries written as a how-to guide for a 14th-century person running a monastery.
Wonderful! Thank you so much!
You’re so welcome!
I was a student at UCL in 2001-2002 and I used to pop in to the British Museum every week or so. I went back last summer for the first time in 20 years (!) with my family and I too was caught off guard by the ticketing, back entrance, etc. But none of that mattered as soon as I was looking at the Franks Casket and then the Lewis Chessmen for the first time in decades, now with my children. The British Museum will always be my favorite (although I have soft spot for the Cloisters and the Frick in NYC, and Sir John Soane in London).
Sadly the Lewis chessmen were in one of the rooms closed for renovation, so I was sad to miss them! But the Franks casket was as beautiful as always.
Having gone to the BM just after a month in Scotland, a great deal of which was in the Hebrides, I thus managed to see the set thanks to both museums!
Amazing!
NONE of my English friends has; ALL my Scottish ones have (with a slight grumble about the BM getting most of them, particularly from the Hebrideans).
No idea how many people from former colonies have.
I would go to exactly the same room you did in the British Museum, which really does have to be my favourite museum so far in the world. But someday, if you find yourself with a bit of extra cash, buy a membership. It doesn't free you from security, that's just a sad reflection of the world we live in, but it allows you into special exhibits without a ticket, gives you access to special tours and lectures, some of which are online, and, it allows you to escape that noisy echoing atrium for the members lounge. Where you can eat or write notes in peace.
I didn’t know about the members lounge! That sounds wonderful; it really is so loud otherwise. I have often thought about a membership so that I can go to the exhibitions & lectures, and will definitely look into it one day when I’m in a financial position to 🥰
Way back when, I also used to pop into the BM whenever I had a spare hour or so. You would've been more likely to see me turn left, however, into the Egyptian rooms. Not that I don't love the medieval too of course (why else would I be subscribed to you!). I've also visited Sutton Hoo itself, which is a wonderful and magical place. Everyone should go!
Last time I went to the BM was a bit of a shock, though - like them asking for your ticket - I was shuffled in a back way and had to go through a 'security check'. Except in my case they just lazily waved me through. So much for security.
But by enforcing that sort of thing, they are attacking our culture. And that isn't acceptable.
Everyone should visit more museums more often. Meaning, really, everyone should have the opportunity to do so...
I really do agree with you that people should visit museums more often: there is so much culture and learning there! That’s why I love that most museums in the UK are free to enter.